21st June

A day of two halves.
Set off smartest at 8:45 and journeyed through hell and heaven, the cold dripping dark deep tunnels that transport you three and four miles down down down then out again into sunshine, the sea... Heavenly mountains and spectacular views, really glorious in the warm sunshine. I arrived at Nordkapp at 12:15, walked over the barren hillside, no trees. Moss, couch grass and tiny wild orchids, plenty of reindeer. Speaking of tunnels, I passed another group of summer skiers, six of them with their roller blades and ski sticks merrily scooting through the dark wet tunnel three miles deep into the mountain. Nordkapp with its steady stream of coaches, camper vans and motorcycles is there to behold. Yes, a parking lot for all the people who will buy mementos and photograph and a huge globe the marks the spot. I waited in the queue to pay 200 Norwegian Kroner to enter this car park.. Thought for a moment, decided not, turned round and explored the area then lunch on a grassy hill of couch grass.

I sauntered back in the sunshine and decided to take another route back, towards Finland 4pm then the weather flipped like a switch and cold rain started to beat down. Hell is rainy and wet. I filled with petrol and found a campsite. The idea that it never rains in Norway is of course ridiculuous but I was lucky so far and thought it would last the trip. So now, I sit in reception with excellent WiFi and plan a direct route back inland to drier (hopefully) Sweden. It is approximately 200 miles to the E45 along less good roads but these roads will be away from the coast, not the longer, prettier route along the coast that I took on the way up. Reluctantly, time to go back to my sodden little tent.

And now, the longest day is still not over.

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